Egg

Egg, a fabulous brunch spot, has a weekend routine of placing complimentary sugar-and-cinnamon-dusted doughnut holes on each table. I thought this was marvelous - so marvelous that I got up from my table, went to the back of the restaurant and raved about the practice. "Oh, we have a lot of extra today," a server remarked, and she packed me a whole paper bag full of them!

Not that I needed anything else! I'd just torn through a flaky buttermilk biscuit with raspberry jam, a velvety soft omelette with sharp, tangy cheddar mixing with the slightly runny interior and oozing out, a fried ball of potato, and broiled tomatoes with a faint kick to them. But that's the way it is at Egg. Even after you've finished your novel-thick French toast, your caramelized grapefruit with mint, your rasher of Dine's Farm bacon, or your Anson Mills cheese grits, you always have room for more. So don't be intimidated by the line out the door; the wait is worth it!

Egg: 135 North 5th St., Williamsburg, Brooklyn, (718) 302-5151.